Finally got everything done for the in-tank fuel pump. Have taken it out, re-clean it up, install new in-tank fuel pump, new in-tank hose, repair the fuel level sender mechanism and in-tank filter. Come let see it one-by-one!
1) Clean-up the whole unit.
This is the simplest one! It is always a good engineering practice to clean the parts first before any inspection/repair to be conducted. Started off with spraying WD40 all over metal parts as they are corroded. The next day I used some petrol residue in bottle, pour it, and use a toothbrush to clean it up! Feel good when it looks good right?
2) Replace old in-tank fuel pump with a new in-tank fuel pump.
How do I know the old in-tank pump broke? From readings, it is said that while engine is running the in-tank fuel pump will produce buzzing sound. Mine was not. And upon checking the terminal (PINK for +ve and BLACK for -ve) connected to the in-tank fuel pump, it shows 12V, means no problem on wiring.
Before changing in-tank fuel pump, ensure you get exactly the same pump for perfect fit. Got myself new Scantech pump comes with terminal bolts and washers. Slide out the old pump upward before installing a new one by sliding it downwards. Remember to use only the supplied bolts and washers to install the electrical terminals. Get it well-tightened! Any loose connection may potentially become a source of ARC and perhaps will EXPLODE your car!
3) Change new in-tank fuel hose.
This hose is actually connecting from backflow line from fuel distributor to the in-tank fuel pump. Simply unscrew the clamps, find a replacement hose with the same hose size and reinstall the new one.
4) Repair fuel level sender.
It works as a variable resistor. In the plastic tube-like, there is a thick disc-shape float which have a pair of metal tips connected along a pair of conductor rods. It basically connects the rods and vary value of resistance following how high it get floated by the petrol liquid itself.
Mine was jammed and showed no fuel all the time; and after repair the fuel gauge shows that actually I have more than half tank! An easy test after refurbishment is to put a multimeter across the fuel level conductor rods terminals (GREY/WHITE and BROWN), move up and down the float slowly and you should see the resistance value varies.
Be careful while dismantling this parts, it have springs!
5) Install new in-tank pump sock filter.
Simple! Install the new sock filter at the bottom of the pump!
And finally install it back to the fuel tanks! It solved my noisy main fuel pump issue! Good Luck!
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